Sunday, November 24, 2019

Brisket done right with a nice Rhone

Brisket can be one of those amazing cuts of meat - good beefy flavor, chewy texture, nice fat cap to keep it moist. It is also painfully easily messed up.  Braised, it too often gets soggy and disgusting wallowing in its own rendered fat. Smoked, it often dries out or loses its beef notes to the overwhelming spice and smoke mix. So, today, I tried an experiment - roasting it slow and low with a healthy rub of salt, pepper, and European herbs and spices. Tented with aluminum foil, it stayed nicely moist, and raised above its rendered fat, it didn't get soggy, but instead kept good texture.  I made a sauce out of shallots, mustard, garlic, red wine and beef stock reduction.  That paired well, along with horseradish. Veg were a mix of roasted turnips, watermelon radishes, potatoes and Brussels sprouts.

All this was paired wonderfully with a 2011 Domaine Sainte Anne Cotes du Rhone Villages. Not known for their great complexity, this "Villages" wine far exceeded its "station".  It was complex, showed strong black fruits, a healthy dose of Provencal herbs (garrigue), minerality, and integration. Although it was 14.5% alcohol, it wore it very well, showing great balance, and an adequate acidic level to keep the wine fresh and interesting. This producer hits well above its price point and level on a consistent basis, even in a "poor" vintage such as 2011. And, this wine's earthy, deep fruit paired beautifully with the deep earthy tones of the brisket and root vegetables.

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