Chablis Enlightenment

I love Chablis wines in general.  But, in recent years, more are showing excessive ripeness and tropical fruit flavors - not what I'm particularly after in this wine from the northern part of Bourgogne.  At its best, it's a high acid, mineral infused chardonnay with lemon or apple tones and showing hints of oyster shell, chalk, and iodine.  The (ridiculously oversimplified) "rule of thumb" is to drink petit Chablis and village level Chablis in the first 2-4 years after release, premier cru from 4-8 years, Grand Crus from 7-10 or so years.  Tonight, we drank a wine that was released by the winery in the last year - a Premier Cru from the vintage of 2005.  Most of my friends in the wine world would have guessed it was approaching oxidative state - indeed, a 2009 premier cru at a recent Chablis tasting was showing that character already.  

Well, that assumption for this wine would be a sad, sad mistake.  A 2005 wine from Daniel-Etienne Defaix, produced from a small premier cru vineyard known as Les Lys. The wine was the most concentrated, yet fresh and engaging, Chablis I have ever drunk.  This is a stunning wine in every way. A bright golden hue emanates from the glass. The nose is chalky, with iodine, apple hints, and an incredible intensity. The palate has a good balance of acid and mineral extract and depth and a finish that never ends. Apple for sure, and ample chalk and barest hints of iodine again - almost like intense oyster brine with apples. This wine is still young.  Oh my.  I had 2 in the cellar, and after this, I've just put in for four more.  Probably should get a case. It's that good. It's very old school, seems to have no real oak (at least not new oak), an intense minerality, no insipid sweet tropical notes, and almost certainly did not go fully malolactic if at all.  I am in awe.

I also should mention its food pairing - a Guinea Hen braised, then roasted, with root vegetables. That was a spectacularly successful dish. Salt and pepper and thyme on the surface of the bird. Shallot and garlic in the cavity. Large pieces of carrot, turnip, celery, potato, and shallot in the pot, along with some white wine, some verjus, and some very concentrated chicken stock. The flavor ended up somewhere between a very rich, great free range chicken and the slightly gamier notes of pheasant. This was not a wimpy poultry dish, and, in spite of Chablis traditionally pairing with lighter seafood, the wine held up gorgeously to the food - the acidity cut through the rich broth, while the minerality complemented the earthy meat and vegetables. Every so often a meal just comes together so very well - this was one of those times.

A great Rhone estate

Those of you who have followed me for a while know of my love/hate relationship with the Rhone valley. My first real excitement for French wine grew from exposure to good southern Rhone - notably, a 2004 Vieux Telegraphe. But so many of the Rhone wines of the last 15 years have been over extracted, heavy, high in alcohol, overwhelmed by overripe, even stewed fruit. And a number of producers thought new oak would make them even "better".  So...  

Tonight we opened a simple 12 year old Cotes du Rhone from Domaine Sainte Anne - their 2007 - and were amazed at the age-worthy purity of this wine. To provide context, the current release (2016) is selling for $13 right now - in other words, a daily drinker from which you should not expect too much - and certainly not over a decade of aging. This was a very warm, even hot, vintage - the 2007s were hailed as good, but big and ripe.  This wine showed incredible freshness, particularly given age and vintage. It was still full of dark fruit - black raspberry, cherry, and plum - and extensive garrigue - that herbal mix of wild herbs. The finish was quite lengthy, and while ripe and a bit high in alcohol, it retained an unexpected balance. 

I have tasted a number of wines from these folks - and they inevitably have a great quality to them. There is definitely a house style that emphasizes freshness and darker fruits, while still respecting both the terroir and vintage.  They remain among the best priced Rhones, and will continue to attract my attention at tastings and for the cellar.

NOTE: I have not been provided with any of the wines discussed here by the producer, a distributor, or anyone else with financial interest. So you get my honest, unvarnished opinion.

White Bordeaux

Dry white Bordeaux is one of the most overlooked wines. And, frankly, the winemakers in the region probably have themselves to blame.  Much is produced as $10 daily drinking wine in the Entre Deux Mers, and at it's best, it's a nice wine of moderate acid that pairs fine with a wide range of Tuesday nigh fare. Within Graves, the big names make some impressive wine - but often throw it in a lot of new oak and make big, unbalanced wines. And for many producers, it's secondary to their red wines. And, a number of producers in the Sauternes region (arguably the world's best/most complex "sweet wines" come from here) do a dry white wine. Again, these are usually not their primary focus, but where part of their fruit (often the younger vines, subpar fruit) end up.

Well, tonight proved my doubts about the region very wrong.  We opened a 2013 Clos des Lunes Lune d'Argent. At six years of age, it's still quite young and primary. Made of 70% semillon and 30% sauvignon blanc, the winemakers found an exquisite balance between the mineral weight of the semillon and the bright, acidic fruit of the sauvignon. They used some oak, but it was seamlessly integrated. The fruit was extensive, as was the seawater/mineral nature. The mouthfeel of waxy semillon was clear, and it seems it went at least partially malolactic, but that only resulted in a creamier mouthfeel and increased complexity without imbuing it with the buttery and yogurt notes that mar many a wine. Priced in the high $20's, this is not a cheap wine - but nor is it in the three figures like many of its higher-browed cousins.  Get as much as you can - and enjoy it with a range of food, including chicken, seafood, pork, and cheeses.

Brisket done right with a nice Rhone

Brisket can be one of those amazing cuts of meat - good beefy flavor, chewy texture, nice fat cap to keep it moist. It is also painfully easily messed up.  Braised, it too often gets soggy and disgusting wallowing in its own rendered fat. Smoked, it often dries out or loses its beef notes to the overwhelming spice and smoke mix. So, today, I tried an experiment - roasting it slow and low with a healthy rub of salt, pepper, and European herbs and spices. Tented with aluminum foil, it stayed nicely moist, and raised above its rendered fat, it didn't get soggy, but instead kept good texture.  I made a sauce out of shallots, mustard, garlic, red wine and beef stock reduction.  That paired well, along with horseradish. Veg were a mix of roasted turnips, watermelon radishes, potatoes and Brussels sprouts.

All this was paired wonderfully with a 2011 Domaine Sainte Anne Cotes du Rhone Villages. Not known for their great complexity, this "Villages" wine far exceeded its "station".  It was complex, showed strong black fruits, a healthy dose of Provencal herbs (garrigue), minerality, and integration. Although it was 14.5% alcohol, it wore it very well, showing great balance, and an adequate acidic level to keep the wine fresh and interesting. This producer hits well above its price point and level on a consistent basis, even in a "poor" vintage such as 2011. And, this wine's earthy, deep fruit paired beautifully with the deep earthy tones of the brisket and root vegetables.

Fall is for food...

Winter arrived thoroughly in Michigan this week.  We had four or so inches of snow on Monday, temperatures in the single digits Tuesday, and this weekend, the snow remains on the ground. All of this says it's time for some nice, slow-cooked comfort food.  That is exactly what happened - to much happiness.

Saturday was time for a beef a la carbonnade, or Belgian beef stew.  There seem to be as many recipes for this as there are people in Belgium, but the basics are all the same.  Some kind of tougher cut of beef cooked for a long time with a ridiculous amount of onion with some beer make up the backbone of this hearty dish. Serving it over noodles is de rigeur. For my version, it was a nice grass-fed piece of chuck roast, cut into 1.5 inch cubes, well seasoned and browned in oil.  I used three gigantic onions from one of my favorite growers at Farmers Market, along with a whole head of garlic and a couple immense shallots.  A slightly past prime brown ale served as the beer, and some chicken stock added body (I was out of beef stock).  The real secrets for my version, though, is the spicing - I add a liberal amount of thyme, 2 bay leaves, about 3 TB. of mustard, and finish with some balsamic vinegar.  Made for a tasty, if simple, dinner.

With a beer-based sauce, you would think beer would be "to drink" - but I prefer wine, so off to wine it was.  We had opened a Morgon a day or so earlier, so one o us finished that off, while I opened a 2011 St. Joseph from Louis Cheze as well.  The Morgon's brighter fruit and mineral notes were a better pairing than the more earthy, bloody St. Joseph, as it turns out.

Today was bean soup - made with some heirloom beans from a local producer, bacon ends to sub in for ham from another local producer.  Carrots, celery, onion, and garlic rounded out the soup, along with fresh made chicken stock I brewed up while cooked the carbonnade.  It was very "right" for the night - if not at all gourmet.  A small bowl of collard greens with some organic cider vinegar accompanied nicely.

All this was paired with a gorgeous and inexpensive Austrian Pinot Noir rose from Buchegger.  It's amazing how much cherry and strawberry fruit could combine with acid and a sharp edged mineral finish in a $12 bottle.  This is a great estate making honest, food-friendly wines that don't break the bank, and while they won't garner 95+ scores from the critics, are just incredibly well-made.  I understand the owner of this estate recently passed away, and I am sorry to hear the loss of such talent and do hope the estate is able to continue, and to continue producing such wonderful wine.

East by Northeast

A play on the inspiration for dinner tonight.  Started with flank steak--simple prep of salt, pepper, medium rare on a grill pan.   It's peak produce season (or a good time, anyway), so we have a ton of good fruit and veggies.  Decided first to do a blueberry sauce for the steak.  I ended up adding  fresh garlic, wine, and butter, along with dark (read slightly sweet, viscous) soy sauce and cinnamon.  It made for a slightly Asian flavored sauce that had nice balance of sweet, salty, and acidity.  For starch, I parboiled some new potatoes and two Hakerai turnips right out of our garden, and then roasted them with a few spring onions and some chopped garlic.  And the veggies--that was the best--green beans, blanched, and then sauteed with shiitake mushrooms and more young garlic, and finished with a touch of regular soy sauce.  One of the best (and most complex) things I've cooked lately.

Goat

Yes, Goat meat.  It's what was for dinner tonight.  Goat shanks, to be exact.  A lot like lamb shanks in texture and flavor, but a bit sweeter, a bit leaner, and overall, maybe even better.  Or at least, different.  We cooked them in a long low braise, a Jamaican curry.  That meant curry powder, some jerk powder, a ton of allspice, some coconut milk, thyme, honey, and of course, some hot pepper.  It came out remarkably well, paired with fingerling potatoes and Christmas Lima beans.  Yummy.  I want to cook more goat.