In contrast, Graham Elliot calls themselves Chicago's first "bistronomic restaurant", with a goal of serving great cuisine in a creative, accessible manner. They do that to a tee. And then some. Not only is the food fun, it makes you think about food, not just consume it. On the table when you arrive is popcorn with parmesan and truffle oil. Good, but not great--only because it wasn't quite as crispy and hot as you'd hope, but great flavor. But the smell of truffle to wake up the taste buds in incomparable. We started with one of their classics--a foie gras mousse lollipop coated with watermelon pop rocks. Playful, dancing in the mouth, playing on the classic combination of foie gras and fruit, with a decidedly lighter interpretation. The pairing was a sparkling Alsatian wine--a blend of pinot blanc, pinot gris, maybe riesling, and who knows what else--point is, it was somewhat sweeter, certainly more fruit driven than champagne, but still with tons of acid cut--and it paired exquisitely with the foie gras. Champagne may well have lacked the fruit and body to pair with the foie. Great kudos ot the beverage staff. That was followed by an amuse bouche of granny smith jelly with Wisconsin cheddar on a housemade cracker--a tasty bite. Then, a deconstructed Caesar salad--a block of quality lettuce with an anchovy on top, beside a fried mascarpone stuffed brioche "Twinkie", tied together with a more or less classic dressing. Wow. What a creative approach. And, paired with a fairly grassy/chivy 2009 Graves blanc, they brought out each other's herbal nature, and cut through the oil in the dressing and fish and crouton. Spot on. Then, on to a deconstructed chicken soup--with a veloute (nearly a gravy) poured into a shallow bowl tableside from a classic lab flask. In the bowl: A mix of thyme tagliatelle, a carrot marshmallow, I think a slice of chicken sausage, and other goodies. Tasted much like chicken soup. On steroids. Wow. And the beverage pairing was a fascinating goose island pepe nero, a dark beer brewed with black pepper, and a large piece of lemon rind in it--all served in a chemistry beaker. Nice. Creative. Outside the box.
Now, onto the protein: First, a black bass with a smoked leek cross section, served with almonds, tomato marmalade, a leek reduction, a vinegar reduction, tomato powder. Very nicely done, maybe a bit "much" going on, but I honestly don't know what I'd have not put on the plate, and it was SO tasty. Here, the wine pairing was positively out of the box--and perfect. A 2000 white Rioja from Spain--very old school, oxidized (intentionally) flavor, big, bold, and ideal with the Spanish nods to the dish. That was an inspired, and bold pairing if I've ever seen one. Then, a small course--razor clam with pernod-licorice foam and a hint of dill. Just 2 or 3 bites, great to cleanse the palate coming into the meat course. Again, wow. Then, meat time--wagyu beef flank steak, medium rare, with truffled trumpet mushrooms, a slice of roquefort panacotta, and salsify fries--a real play on steak frites, with nearly a nod to tournedos rossini (just missing the foie gras). It was a great play on teh classic pairing, too, of beef, earthy mushrooms, and bleu cheese. And, most sommeliers would haul out the bordeaux--probably too young of an age, or worse, a California cabernet. But no. A 2006 Lucien le Moine Bourgogne rouge. "Just" a baseline burgundy--and who ever heard of pairing any pinot, much less AOC BURGUNDY, with steak? Well, it sure worked. The acidity in the wine cut through the fatty richness of the dish, refreshing after each bite. The earthy mushroom notes of the wine amped up the truffles and black trumpets. The acrid Roquefort played with the natural funk of the wine. In short, WOW.
Then, on to the sweeter stuff. A light granita of grapefruit and campari--great acidity and flavor to once again, clear the palate, refresh things for a big dessert. Which was a cocoa cake crumble with a cardamom creme, vanilla salt, cinnamon gelato, a cinnamon tuile, just complex as could be. Tasty, and interesting. And paired well with a 10 year Tawny port from Quinta de infantado. What a dinner!
Throughout it all, the service was as near "perfect" as any I've ever received. The sommelier was knowledgeable, excited to talk wines. The waiters explained dishes well, but were not intrusive at all. Best of all, after dinner, we were invited to a quick kitchen tour--mid service on a Friday night. Whoa. These guys are good. THey know how to impress. And I will be back--to try out the new menu in a few weeks, or to try out the "bigger" 9 or mroe course dinners. These are deadly serious people when it comes to their food, but they have so much of a flair for playing with it, making it fun and creative. And, in the process, they really do make you think about what food is all about. And, best of all, they have a beverage program that doesn't give two craps about what the label is, but about how the food and beverages taste together. They think seriously outside the box, and as a result, the diner gets a meal that really works together, where nothing is an "afterthought". Because we were doing a tasting menu, I did not get to discuss the wine list at length with the sommelier. But based upon his ability to pair wines, at a reasonable price point, with challenging foods, he is clearly a rare talent. The wine list is an amazing blend of named labels and eclectic, off the beaten path, producers and appelations. I know I would love to taste through some wines with this guy--I think we'd have a lively conversation, to put it mildly.
I would not say that this is an inexpensive restaurant, but a five course (that was what this was considered) tasting menu listed at $75/head. The wine pairings were $40. For this level of restaurant, for this kind of food and wine, it's a bargain. Is it everyday dining? Not for most of us mere mortals. In fact, for most of us, it's a bit of a splurge. And, probably, it shouldn't be everyday dining for anyone. No one should take such an exquisite approach to food for granted. Will this restaurant get a 2nd or 3rd Michelin star? I don't know. Their food departs remarkably from the classics, and they take a lot of risks. I happen to like that--even love it. For me, this is one of the most memorable meals I've had in a very long time, and I hope these guys keep up the phenomenal work, and keep taking the risks.
